Say hello to Nova Scotia

Reconnect with nature and live life in the slow lane on Cape Breton Island

Why go?

Just a six-hour flight away, Nova Scotia’s capital Halifax offers adventure and escape. A far cry from fellow Canadian capitals like Toronto and Edmonton, Halifax’s friendly atmosphere and “nowhere to be” attitude makes the grind of daily life feel like a distant memory. But the real pull is three hours north of the city in Cape Breton Island, where – in the words of inventor Alexander Graham Bell, who kept a summer residence there – every day feels like Sunday. Home to 132,000 residents, its lush greenery, dramatic coastal vistas, endless lakes, and fresh seafood make it the ultimate destination for thrill seekers, nature lovers, and foodies alike.

Explore

The island’s Cabot Trail is a must-do road trip. Sit back, relax, and let the scenery sweep you off your feet. On the trail, the adventure really begins in the Highlands National Park, a 950km² territory home to 26 different hiking routes. The most notable is the Skyline Trail – a 6.5km round hike to the dramatic coastline, which offers breath-taking views over rugged headland cliffs and endless ocean expanse. Watch whales breach and eagles soar – you may even spot a moose or a bear.

For those who prefer life on two wheels, Mike’s E-Bike tours are the perfect compromise. Hop on a three-hour adventure where you can soak in the natural vistas and gorgeous greenery of the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail in stunning Port Hood. On your scenic, self-directed drive via electric bike, you will see some of the island’s abundant lakes and rivers as you make your way along the Southwest Mabou river.

When you’re done, stop off at Glenora Distillery (Glenoradistillery.com), North America’s first single malt whisky distiller and inn. Join a tour and learn all there is to know about the intricate whisky making process and sample some of its delicious offerings.

Be sure to make time for the Alexander Graham Bell Museum in the quaint seaside village of Baddeck, where knowledgeable guides will take you through the Scottish inventor’s fascinating time spent in the area. There’s a reason he decided to make the idyllic village his final resting place. When you’re done, mooch around the array of independent shops and pick up some locally crafted gifts. From Baddeck, you can hop on a sailing tour before grabbing a bite to eat at The Highwheeler Café and Bakery (Facebook.com/baddeckcafe). Try their famous porridge bread – it’s a local delicacy.

Food and drink

When it comes to seafood, it doesn’t get fresher than in Nova Scotia. In Halifax, we recommend splashing out at The Five Fishermen (Fivefishermen.com), a swanky eatery offering melt-in-your-mouth, locally sourced seafood and steaks. Try the oysters and scallops, or opt for the lobster dinner – 1.5lbs of Atlantic lobster dripping in garlic butter. Don’t forget to wash it all down with a bottle of Tidal Bay, a local Nova Scotian wine from one of 14 wineries dotted around the province.

In Mabou on Cape Breton Island, you’ll find the Red Shoe Pub (Redshoepub.com), owned by local legends The Rankin Sisters, offering no-frills homestyle fare with a side of live traditional music. Dishes like regular favourite Mabou seafood chowder are sure to hit the spot.

If you want your food with a view, don’t miss the Purple Thistle Dining Room at Keltic Lodge (Kelticlodge.ca/dining/purple-thistle) where the stunning Atlantic Ocean landscape complements its delightful, tastefully presented menu.

Where to stay

Before heading up to Cape Breton Island, opt for a night at Halifax’s hottest new development, the Muir Hotel. Opened in December 2021 and boasting 109 rooms, the five-star hotel is situated in the heart of the harbour-front with ocean views. Its maritime-inspired décor, reminiscent of a luxe sea-vessel, impresses with the finer details and employs bespoke, Canadian-made furniture. Rooms are spacious and the on-site facilities –  including restaurant Drift, and a state-of-the-art fitness centre, and spa – offer good bang for your buck.

In Cape Breton Island, the freshly opened North Star in Louisbourg is not to be missed. Run by interior design royalty Colin McAllister and Justin Ryan, doors opened in June 2022 after the couple fell in love with the area’s timeless charm. Surrounded by dazzling blue sea, 12 of its 22 Scandi-style rooms are ocean facing, offering a sweeping panorama of the famous Fortress of Louisbourg. However, the real star of the show is the on-site restaurant, The Bothy, situated in a renovated hanger and designed with expert precision – from the natural woods to the lighting.

With an “anything goes” dress code, Colin and Justin will greet you with warmth, while serving an array of to-die-for dishes, like lobster mac and cheese, and blue cheese-soaked mussels so delicious you’ll find yourself shamelessly slurping up the sauce!

Need to know

Words: Eleanor Ball.