Italy’s Alpine Trentino delivers a dose of winter wellness with a dolce-vita twist…
Why Go?
Situated in the heart of the Trentino ski region, the picturesque village of Madonna di Campiglio is the glimmering jewel of the Italian Dolomites, providing perpetual pistes and majestic mountain vistas as far as the eye can see. Dubbed the “Queen of Snow”, the nickname nods to the resort’s regal roots; amongst its first holidaymakers in the 19th century were Princess Sissi and Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria. But while Madonna oozes with inherent elegance, fur-clad glitterati and Michelin star dining galore, a week of snow, ski and spa here does not require a royal budget. With a laid-back ambience that’s far less ostentatious than spots like Verbier or Courchevel, first-timers, families and snow-fiends all receive a warm welcome of authentic Italian hospitality, making it an unforgettable destination that lingers in the hearts of visitors.
Spa Sanctuary
The four-star Hotel Rosengarten offers a slice of luxury at the snip of a budget. Run by the Ballardini family, the chalet-style building embodies chocolate box charm, with walls decked in cosy, fragrant wood, and romantic rooms that boast breath-taking views over the towering Brenta Dolomites. Breakfast is served here; expect a calorific spread of cakes, meats and eggs made to order, guaranteed to get you through till your first pitstop. The basement spa awaits boot-weary limbs after long days of pummelling pistes. Find sweaty serenity amongst the Finnish and Swedish saunas, or heal with some hydrotherapy in the Kneipp Path. Using natural products with herbs and scents that evoke the mountains nearby, the expansive variety of soothing massage treatments will render you horizontal for the rest of the day. Take an aperitivo and toast your good fortunes at the in-house champagne bar, which showcases the region’s signature Trentodoc sparkling wine. Rich and full of flavour, and fizz, you may never give champagne another look!
Alpine Adventureland
The resort is renowned in Europe for its impeccable grooming, offering 150km of pristine pistes to throw yourself down. Beginners can find their legs on the leisurely, cruise-y blues, while experts can test their nerves on the infamous Spinale Direttissima; a slope featuring the immensely steep Schumacher Streif (paying homage to Ferrari’s famous F1 driver, who used to frequently holiday here), black runs don’t get any more thrilling than this!
The Trentino Sunrise Ski is a once in a lifetime event that shouldn’t be missed – prepare to be moved by this multi-sensory and meditative mountain experience. After catching the first cable car at the crack of dawn, carve your way down impeccable corduroy snow, illuminated by the candyfloss coloured sunrise that makes the mountains blush. Having worked up an appetite for breakfast, Rifugio Boch awaits your call, serving up ample post-ski sustenance and delicious, heart-warming hot cocoa by an open fire.
Drinking and Dining
This being Italy, cuisine always takes centre stage. From humble mountain huts to gourmet Michelin dining, the food is reason enough to make the trip! Think platefuls of pasta, risotto, polenta, pizzas, cured meats, cheeses, and a notable German/Austrian influence of dumplings and stews. Look out for the local speciality of strozzapreti, which translates to “strangled priests”– rumour has it the churchmen were so enthralled by this buttery gnocchi goodness, they ate too quickly and choked themselves!
At the 1 Michelin Star, Il Gallo Cedrone, Chef Sabino Fortunato whips up a magical culinary storm that takes inspiration from Trentino. Fashioned with seasonal produce, while remaining open to influences from the Mediterranean and elsewhere in Italy, expect a menu featuring delicious delicacies of game and freshwater fish.
For a night of high-altitude hedonism, don your fur coat and head up the mountain to the sophisticated Chalet Spinale. Organised every Thursday and Saturday throughout the ski season, the evening takes alpine glam to mountainous new heights. A red-carpet entrance leads to a delectable three-course candlelit dinner, which is then followed by DJs, disco balls and dancing until the early hours of the morning. And this is one place where you don’t feel that you have to hold back… there’s nothing like the crisp mountain air to whisk away your hangover!
Need to know
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Room rates at the Hotel Rosengarten start from £83 per person, per night. To book, visit rosen-garten.it
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British Airways and easyJet operate direct daily flights to Verona from London Gatwick. Follow with a taxi or bus transfer of approximately two hours and 30 minutes to reach the Madonna Di Campiglio resort.
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The Trentino Sunrise Ski experience is priced from £40 for adults, £27 for kids aged 6-12, and is free for children under 6. Book at visittrentino.info
Words: Helena Holdsworth