Captivating Cagliari

Cool culture, delicious food and a blissful beach – Sardinia’s capital offers the ultimate break

Sardinia is well known for its beautiful beaches and glitzy resorts, but its capital remains undiscovered. Sitting on the island’s southern coast, the city has plenty to shout about. Rich in history, it also boasts a stunning 8km-long beach and thriving gastro scene. There are charming neighbourhoods to discover and the best sunsets, too.

Cultural Castello

A wander through Cagliari’s hilltop Castello district gives a glorious overview of its history – as well as staggering views of the rest of the city below.

The district as it appears now was first created in the 13th century, and its cobbled streets, houses and palaces have stood unchanged for hundreds of years. Heavily fortified with gateway entrances and a solid city wall, don’t miss the twin towers of Torre di San Pancrazio and Torre dell’Elefante. Built as defensive towers, they’ve dominated the district and are still the main gates to Castello. They’re also the tallest points in Cagliari, so offer breath-taking views from the top.

Other must-sees are found in Piazza Palazzo. Cagliari Cathedral and its Bell Tower look imposing from the outside and are packed with treasures inside. Check out the crypt and admire the ornate ceiling, which is carved straight out of the rock. The Viceroy’s Palace, which was built in the 14th century and once hosted a young Queen Elizabeth II, sits a few doors down, and City Hall lies just across the square.

MAN Archaeological Museum of Cagliari is nearby and is well worth a visit. Packed with artefacts and information spanning 7,000 years of history, it’s notable for giving a fascinating insight into Sardinia’s little known Nuragic Civilisation, including pottery, bronzetti and the star attraction, the Giganti di Monte Prama sculptures. Elsewhere in Castello, don’t miss Via Stretta – the district’s narrowest street. Lovingly looked after by residents with plenty of pot plants lining the sides, it’s a charming place to wander down, while Bastione di Saint Remy is a beautiful structure with stunning views from the panoramic terrace above and a great choice of bars below – check out Café San Remy and Antico Caffé for a pitstop.

For a tour with a difference, take a ride with charismatic local guide Claudio in his Ape Calessino – a Sardinian tuk-tuk. Comfortably seating three adults in the back, it’s a charming way to travel round the city. Go to Cagliaritouring.com for more information and to book.

Explore

There’s plenty to explore on foot in Cagliari and the main shopping streets of Via Roma and Via Garibaldi are perfect for strolling. For more off-beat boutiques, check out Via Sulis. Running just behind Via Garibaldi, it cuts a neat path through the charming and colourful Villanova neighbourhood.

Characterised by its narrow streets of pastel-hued houses, plant-filled balconies and low-key bars, coffee shops and artisanal workshops, Villanova occasionally opens up to wider squares that throng with locals and people enjoying a laid-back aperitivo. It’s the perfect place for a spot of people watching and early evening is the ideal time to go.

Slow it down

For a complete change of pace, head to Poetto beach. This gorgeous 8km-long stretch of sand is packed with amenities and the promenade – Viale Lungo Mare Poetto – is closed to traffic except taxis and buses, so is popular with runners and rollerbladers.

Easily reached from the centre of Cagliari by public transport or cab, you can spend the whole day here. Enjoy drinks and snacks from the beach bars or a gelato from local vendors. For lunch, we highly recommend I CherChi al Poetto – a fantastic restaurant on the promenade. Famous for its seafood and pasta, you can watch the world go by while you enjoy a meal with a glass of wine.

Elsewhere, Parco Naturale Molentargius Saline offers a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle. Free to access, you can wander through the reserve and check out the flora and fauna, or hire bikes to go further. Guided tours are available and are the only way to catch a good view of the 8,000 flamingos that nest there – a truly stunning sight.

Food and drink

Sardinian cuisine is famously good – and fresh – with seafood caught in the Med and farmed produce coming from the island’s lush interior. Take a trip to San Benedetto Mercato – the indoor food market has a whole floor of seafood, as well as meat, cheese, deli goods and fresh fruit and veg. For eating out, we recommend Libarium Nostrum in Castello. It’s got a tempting menu of local favourites, as well as a terrace with views of the city below.

Another restaurant with views to match the quality of cooking is La Paillote. It’s perched on a rocky outcrop between Cala Mosca and Cala Fighera, but it’s worth the trip. Not only is the food delicious, but the views are staggering. Time it right and enjoy a spectacular sunset with your spritz.

Finally, you can’t visit Sardinia and not try the local wines, and there are plenty of quality cantinas and wineries to discover. Argiolas, a 20-minute drive away from the city, is one of the most renowned wineries and offers tours and tastings. Go to Visitargiolas.it for more inspiration.

Need to know

Words: Jo Chapman. Photos: Ras-Sardinian Tourist Board