A tale of two towns

Take a French holiday that gives you double the fun

Why go?

Just a stone’s throw apart, Deauville and Trouville are two Normandy towns with their own brilliant beaches and distinct characters. And with a bridge linking the two, you can easily enjoy both. You don’t have to bother with airport stress to get here either. Depart on the ferry from Portsmouth to Caen, taking your car or by foot, and Deauville/ Trouville are just a 50-minute drive away.

Nicknamed the Parisian Riviera, Deauville was created for tourism and became a playground for the upper classes in the 19th century. It still retains an upscale feel, boasting high-end eateries and designer shops. There’s a sprinkling of Hollywood glamour, too, thanks to The American Film Festival in September, where stars including Brad Pitt, Harry Styles and Florence Pugh have graced the boardwalk. Trouville is earthier and artier. It grew from a tiny fishing village to a place where painters such as Monet, Courbet and Boudin flocked.

See the sights

Everything is close, so it’s easy to explore. Stroll down to Deauville’s beach and check out the film star- named beach huts – the Gallic equivalent of having your handprint on Hollywood’s Walk of Fame. Wandering around Deauville’s high-end stores, you’ll find Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Cartier, Sonia Rykiel and Dior. Coco Chanel had her first shop here in 1913, setting the trend for Deauville being a très chic destination. The dramatic sweeping staircase, ornate chandeliers and plush décor of Deauville’s Casino Barrière gives an inkling of its glamorous past. Ian Fleming, a regular here, was said to have based Casino Royale on this beautiful building. Another draw for those who like a flutter is the racecourse. Horses are something of a motif for Deauville. You’ll see equine imagery everywhere and its nickname is the Kingdom of Horses.

Soak up history and culture at former convent-turned-cultural centre the Franciscaines (Lesfranciscaines.fr). Drop into one of its exhibitions or simply marvel at the chandelier made up of 14,285 tubes that capture the shades of the Normandy sky. It was made famous by the Impressionists, who were devoted to the area.

Then, step across the bridge over the River Touques to Trouville, where the beach is stunning – it’s known as The Queen of Beaches. Visit the seaside art and history museum Musée Villa Montebello and learn more about those Impressionists, who made Normandy their muse.

Go a little further afield with an a 20-minute drive to Pont L’Evêque to discover the Calvados Experience (Calvados-pere-magloire.com/calvados-experience). This innovative and immersive experience takes you through the history of Calvados, the famous apple brandy made exclusively in the Normandy region. It’s well worth the £10 entrance fee (£7 for kids) – plus you’re treated to a tasting at the end.

Dining

It’s France, so of course the food – especially the seafood – is a big draw. We adored the scallops at Fanfaron (Fanfarondeauville.fr) – so sweet and buttery. This gourmet experience offered excellent value, at around £30 for a three-course meal. A cosy dinner at houseboat restaurant La Peniche (Indeauville.fr/restaurants/la-peniche) featured delicate, beautifully cooked skate wing. Feasting al fresco in the sunlight at Trouville’s fish market at Maison Saiter (Maisonsaiter.com/) on just-out-of-the-sea lobster, prawns, langoustine, oysters, whelks, sea urchins and clams, while perched on high tables with a glass or three of Muscadet was amazing.

Need to know

Words: Lucy Hunter. Photos: Kevin Thubaud, myphotoagency